

They are made of high carbon 10B38 steel for long lasting performance and durability and are laser-trued for smooth, even grass cutting. These blades are Duramatic blades, and are some of the sharpest in the industry, resulting in proven reduction of engine wear and improved performance! They are “ Austempered ” to meet strict industry standards of hardness and ductility according to ANSI standards. Spartan Mowers currently has HI-LIFT Blades in stock to fit every Spartan mower in every deck size. A high lift blade is a unique style of blade designed with larger wind wings which increase airflow. The higher air flow also helps prevent clogging when mowing tall or wet grass. High-lift blades have deeper curves on the ends, which create enough suction to circulate and expel the clippings. Low-lift mower blades perform well on dry, shorter grasses, while high lift blades work better in ALL conditions. So - what’s the difference between high-lift and lower/standard blades? High-lift and low-lift mower blades use different degrees of curve on the ends of the blades to create different levels of suction beneath the mower. Our HI-LIFT Blade works in conjunction with all Spartan deck designs and sizes. The high angle of the blade generates a lot of air circulation, which helps prevent most clippings from sticking underneath the deck - especially when they are damp. The intention of a high-lift blade is to purposefully expel the grass clippings out of the mower either into a bagging device, or more commonly - out the open discharge shoot of your mower. They are also an “all-condition blade” giving the best cut regardless of the turf. While using standard blades will certainly get the job done, why not go to the next level and get the most bang for your time and buck with the new Spartan Mower HI-LIFT Blade! The number one reason most people love these new blades is they provide more lift on weedy turf areas, creating better stripes. Ordered another set of Gator blades, a Stens oil change kit.When it comes to mowing you want to make the most of your time. I will wire the adapter directly to the harness w solder shrink tube butt connectors, should have been in the first place.

Greased the machine and blades with a synthetic grease, sharpened blades, complete & master tune up and oil change, pressure washed, mowed for 2 hours with it, and it was fine.

The short little adapter pigtail harness from the machine to the PTO connector, and it was shorting out. Cleaned them all, taped them all up, works perfect. SO, I traced wires to the back again, and the stupid, bad, poor design connector in the back wasn’t making good connection. I got new switch, but before I installed it, I hot wired it, it worked again, w the old switch, it worked.
